This snug pub brims with folksy features: wonky whitewashed stone walls, stripped floorboards, a Welsh dresser loaded with jars of preserved fruits, and a wood burner in an inglenook that contrasts with the polished metal of the open kitchen.
The ever-changing menu takes its cue from the setting – traditional by inclination, but shot through with contemporary freshness. The Executive chef previously worked at the award winning restaurant down the road, and it shows.
Welsh rarebit (unctuous, glossy and perfectly charred) arrives on a chunky piece of sourdough with a bottle of Worcestershire sauce on the side, while seasonally attuned starters might range from a thick, silky soup of new-season’s asparagus and wild garlic topped with a runny-yolked crispy egg to a fresh, light risotto incorporating plump mussels and more wild garlic.
To follow, our braised, crisp-skinned duck leg – an absolutely wonderful combo of crunchy and fatty – was teamed with velvety butter beans, chunky bacon and a rich cider sauce cut through with the spiky brightness of aïoli. We also enjoyed a tender, perfectly rosy hanger steak with flawless chips and a punchy peppercorn sauce.
For dessert, dainty brown butter cakes – oven-fresh and nutmeg-spiced, fluffy in the middle and caramelised on top – were a huge hit, as was the almost impossibly thick and creamy honeycomb ice cream. A compact list of European wines offers plenty by the glass or carafe.
Score: 8 out of 10
